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The mere mention of Japanese body horror will likely have fans ofTetsuo: The Iron Man’s ears perking up. Yet, Japan has been known to thrive in the genre, from movie series likeTomieto modern cult classics likeMeatball Machine. One that shines above them all and, dare we say, is even comparable to Shinya Tsukamoto’s quintessential film is Mika Ninagawa’sHelter Skelter.
While mainly flying under the radar, with distribution and lack of availability on the major streaming platforms,Helter Skelteris a masterpiece worth tracking down or subscribing to one of the smaller platforms that host the feature film. The timing to watch the movie has never been better, as with the fanfare aroundThe Substance,Helter Skeltermakes for a pretty glorious companion for the Demi Moore-led body horror.
The Substance
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‘Helter Skelter’ Tackles Obsessions with Beauty
For those in the West, the mere name ‘Helter Skelter’ may be an awkward title to approach. Those old enough to remember or are interested in macabre subjects will relate it to thehypnotizing Charles Mansonand his family that used as a mantra behind their crimes. Others will equate it to The Beatles song off the white album. The latter inspired the original manga by Kyoko Okazaki, feeling it fitting to capture the chaos her characters faced in her work.Kyoko Okazaki worked as a fashion illustrator before becoming an acclaimed mangaka, with her manga drawing from her time in the industry and seeing its shortcomings and potential harm to women who are chewed up by the demands placed on them.
Helter Skelter(2012) is relatively faithful to the source material, telling the story of a declining fashion model named Liliko. The film begins with Liliko reaching the end of her being at the height of fame, with newer, younger models slowly rising to prominence. To keep up with beauty standards,Liliko undergoes a series of experimental surgeries. Yet, these surgeries have their drawbacks, including causing her skin to rot, with expensive upkeep becoming essential to maintaining her image.
The combination ofa body in revolt and the feeling of losing her grasp on their popularity causes Liliko to lash out against those around her; notably, she abuses and manipulates her assistant and her partner into committing criminal and deviant acts to both keep her relevant in the industry and for her general amusement. As the plot ofHelter Skelterunwinds, Liliko becomes more desperate and malicious in her actions.
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Helter Skelterwas directed by Mika Ninagawa, who would also go on to adapt another bleak classic in Osamu Dazai’sNo Longer Humanin 2019.In keeping with the source material, former model-turned-actor Erika Sawajiri was cast as Liliko. Sawajiri was joined by Japanese industry staples Shinobu Terajima and Nao Ômori in supporting roles.Helter Skelteralso boasts a fantastic score by the prolific composer Kōji Ueno.
‘Helter Skelter’ Is an Underappreciated Masterpiece
Helter Skelter’slimited distribution — only recently becoming available to stream in the West and not on major platforms — has kept the movie in relative obscurity. This is a shame, considering how stunning, unique, and poignant the work is by Mika Ninagawa. Visually, the film immerses itself in the fashion industry while carving its own style;the movie is a visual wonder from start to finish without feeling indulgent, reflecting Liliko’s glamorous lifestyle.Helter Skelterwill be a delectable treat for those wholove the Met Gala and fashionable films.
The movie’s artistic flair puts it on the more experimental side of cinema, but its reach will extend beyond the ‘art house’ crowd. Certainly, many elements are told through abstract sequences and visuals, butthe story is grounded in fundamental truths about youth, obsession, and beauty, making these artistic flairs simple to follow.Helter Skelteralso packs an emotional punch. As wicked as Liliko is, her fight against the inevitable makes her a profoundly tragic character that can be relatable when viewed through the perspective of anyone tackling their mortality and irrelevancy in culture that comes with age.
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Erika Sawajiri gives a stunning, emotive performance as Liliko, effortlessly transitioning between refined grace, extreme contempt, and deep depression. As is often the case with foreign films, unless it gets global recognition, the score from Kōji Ueno is vastly underappreciated; it is easilyone of the best scoresof the 2010s. Thesharp visual direction, the lush set and fashion, the perfectly attuned score, and the spot-on performances make Helter Skelter an underappreciated masterpiece.
Why Fans of ‘TheSubstance’ Need to Watch ‘Helter Skelter’
Helter Skelteris the perfect companion piece toThe Substance.Both balance horror with beauty with remarkable skill, tap into poignant themes of mortality, and use a visual flair that makes them a unique viewing experience.It is difficult to put Erika Sawajiri’s performance on the same level as Demi Moore’s, yet both excel at capturing the desperation of a star in decline and selling the moments of body horror, both physically and mentally. As similar as the films are in theme and delivery, they are alsounique visions of horrorby standout women directors that bring a unique perspective but effortlessly convey universal themes that a broad audience can appreciate.
Helter Skelteris available to stream on Fandor, Asian Crush, Retro Crush, or Midnight Pulp.The Substanceis available to stream onMubi.
